The Durham Guide

Where to stay in Durham, from the people who worked the desks.

We've spent years in Durham's hotel trade: checking people in, moving them when the bells were too loud, finding last rooms in graduation week. This site puts live prices from the big booking sites on one map, with the honest notes we'd give you across the counter.

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Durham Cathedral rising above the city's rooftops in autumn light
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Pick your corner of the county

Most visitors stop at the cathedral city, but County Durham holds four very different stays. Each key below is one we'd hand you for a different kind of trip.

Durham City

The cathedral city

The peninsula and the Bailey for cobbles, college walls and waking to bells; the riverside for the reliable chains; Victorian guesthouses up by the station with viaduct views. Everything is walkable, and everything books out first here.

Parking on the peninsula is scarce and tolled. Arrive light, or park below and walk up; the city is smaller than it looks.

Durham Dales

Teesdale, Weardale and the high moors

Country inns, walkers' hotels and farm stays in the North Pennines. High Force, Barnard Castle and some of the darkest skies in England. This is the county at its quietest and most spectacular.

Book dinner when you book the room; kitchens up the dales close earlier than city visitors expect.

Durham Coast

Cliff tops and sea air

The heritage coast runs from Seaham down to Crimdon: sea-glass beaches, cliff-top paths and harbour views, with Seaham as the natural base for a coastal stay.

Sea-view rooms go first on fine weekends, and a good one turns a night on the coast into the whole point of the trip.

Vale of Durham

Castles, showgrounds and railways

The middle of the county: Bishop Auckland and its castle, the Kynren showground, Locomotion at Shildon and Beamish within easy reach. Market-town hotels and country houses with easier parking and gentler prices.

On Kynren show nights the rooms around Bishop Auckland vanish; book the bed before the tickets, not after.

When guests ask us where to go

The short version of the guidebook: the places we actually send people when they ask at the desk.

See

  • Durham Cathedral: free to enter, and the tower view on a clear day earns the climb.
  • The river walk: 45 gentle minutes around the peninsula, beneath the cathedral and castle.
  • The Story: the history of the county and its people, free, and less visited than it deserves.
  • The Light: The Story's sister venue, soon to house a dedicated DLI Gallery.
  • Durham Indoor Market: independent traders and local produce, at the heart of the city for centuries. Best on a weekend morning.

Eat

  • Faru: Michelin-recommended and the finest table in the city. Book well ahead.
  • Marco Pierre White Steakhouse: classic steaks and grills at the Hotel Indigo, in the city's grand old Shire Hall.
  • The Food Pit: independent street food vendors on the river walk, relaxed and good value.
  • The Cosy Club: breakfast through to cocktails, with cathedral views from the riverside.
  • Veeno Wine Bar: a relaxed Italian wine bar in the city centre; try the Italian Afternoon Tea with a twist.

Drink

  • Flat White Kitchen: the best specialty coffee in Durham, in a room just the right size.
  • Mr Flynn's Irish Tavern: well-kept Guinness and an atmosphere that makes it hard to leave after just the one.
  • Old Tom's Gin Bar: a serious gin range with the knowledge to back it up.
  • The Half Moon Inn: CAMRA-accredited real ale and a beer garden for warmer days.
  • Vennels Cafe: a tucked-away favourite in one of the city's medieval lanes, away from the main thoroughfare.

Notes from the front desk

  • Graduation weeks (late June into July): book the better part of a year ahead. Rooms triple in price and still sell out.
  • The Miners' Gala, the second Saturday of July, fills the whole city. Wonderful day; terrible day to want a walk-in room.
  • Sunday night is the quiet bargain: the weekend crowd has gone and rates drop with them.
  • Open days and interviews: if you're visiting the university with a teenager, the guesthouses up by the railway station are closest to the trains and kindest on the budget.