Most visitors stop at the cathedral city, but County Durham holds four very different stays. Each key below is one we'd hand you for a different kind of trip.
Durham City
The cathedral city
The peninsula and the Bailey for cobbles, college walls and waking to bells; the riverside for the reliable chains; Victorian guesthouses up by the station with viaduct views. Everything is walkable, and everything books out first here.
Parking on the peninsula is scarce and tolled. Arrive light, or park below and walk up; the city is smaller than it looks.
Durham Dales
Teesdale, Weardale and the high moors
Country inns, walkers' hotels and farm stays in the North Pennines. High Force, Barnard Castle and some of the darkest skies in England. This is the county at its quietest and most spectacular.
Book dinner when you book the room; kitchens up the dales close earlier than city visitors expect.
Durham Coast
Cliff tops and sea air
The heritage coast runs from Seaham down to Crimdon: sea-glass beaches, cliff-top paths and harbour views, with Seaham as the natural base for a coastal stay.
Sea-view rooms go first on fine weekends, and a good one turns a night on the coast into the whole point of the trip.
Vale of Durham
Castles, showgrounds and railways
The middle of the county: Bishop Auckland and its castle, the Kynren showground, Locomotion at Shildon and Beamish within easy reach. Market-town hotels and country houses with easier parking and gentler prices.
On Kynren show nights the rooms around Bishop Auckland vanish; book the bed before the tickets, not after.